The Highs and Lows of the East Coast Trail: Part 1

From beautiful vistas to blisters on blisters, hiking the East Coast Trail comes with its ups and downs (literally and figuratively). Our Julia Cook hiked from Portugal Cove to Cappahayden over 13 days and brings us the highlights.

If you can tell a lady by her hands, you can tell a hiker by her feet. My feet are still peeling from long-healed blisters and some nails are beyond repair.

At the end of June I walked almost 300 kilometres along the East Coast Trail. Here's Part 1 of my favourite sections.

Warning: it's very subjective and could be slightly influenced by how much pain I was experiencing.

White Horse Path:

This trail is rated strenuous for a reason. This and Picco's Ridge Path are new additions to the trail system and are still in the process of being hardened. I preferred the White Horse Path. You walk along cliffs and through lower lying woodlands.

Eventually you come out to Cape St. Francis, where you can see sun-bleached shrubs holding onto the cliff. Give yourself a full day to finish this trail and bring along some hiking poles for the more treacherous sections.

Stiles Cove Path:

I camped a short distance into this trail on my second day and, even though I was nauseatingly exhausted, it was one of my favourite camping spots. This was also a prime spot to view some icebergs and whales.

The best parts of this trail are the cliffs, if you don't mind heights. The path hugs along the coastline where you can see a sharp drop down to the water. From this far up, even boats look small.

Finally, the path ends at a waterfall. There are signs NOT to jump into the water due to safety concerns. I do not condone jumping into this, even on a warm day after a very long hike, despite how tempting it may look (sob).

Sugarloaf Path:

This was not actually one of my favourite trails, but I know how much other people enjoyed it and thought it was important to include. The trail starts at the Ocean Science Centre before climbing up along the rocks. 

After walking through some woodland trails, you come out to this view, which almost makes climbing over all those roots worth it. Don't be fooled, though. You still have a bit to hike, all downhill, across rocks. If you have a sore knee or feet, you will not like this.

But, this view, though.

Deadmans Bay Path:

This WAS one of my favourite trails, partially because I got to sleep in a bed the night before, BUT also because it's the perfect length and includes everything the East Coast Trail is known for. The first 10 minutes are a sharp climb up, which gives you a great view of Signal Hill from afar. Not long after that you'll stumble across a pond where you can take a dip.

The trail comes to a causeway. It's a bit of a balancing act to walk along the boulders, but it's also a great place to relax and take a break. You might even come across some people cleaning up the beach, like I did.

Cape Spear Path:

The lighthouse is definitely worth a stop before continuing a long the trail. When I got there the fog was just rolling in, so I got a clean blue view of the ocean. It's a bit chilly, so make sure to bring a jacket. I hiked about 7 kilometres through the fog before I decided to set up camp. 

Petty Harbour Community Link:

The East Coast Trail paths are connected by community links. Friendly residents may offer you a ride through some of the longer sections, but I suggest you walk the link between Maddox Cove and Petty Harbour. There are shops and restaurants, including Chafe's Landing, and you'll need the fuel up for the next leg of the journey.

That's the first 6 days of my trip. Part 2 goes from Petty Harbour to Cappahayden.

For more information about the trails, including ratings and estimated hiking time, be sure to check out the East Coast Trail website.