'Alive — that's the feeling the ocean gives you': A surfer's reflection

In the middle of winter, in the middle of a pandemic, where do you go to find joy? Maybe it's a physical spot, or a memory. Our new Happy Place series explores both. 

Brett Bedecki finds joy on the water, whether he's surfing, windsurfing, kiteboarding, standup paddleboarding or sailing. He's also "challenged, humbled and awed by all the energy and beauty the waves bring." 

Here's his reflection on the ocean. Photos by Carolina Andrade. 

As you escape town through the traffic lights, you'll meet the winding road. Through the smell of sunscreen and dog hair, just beyond the trees — there's that ocean air. Around the next turn, your eyes meet it through the windshield. You see the breaking wave frame up on the horizon beyond the headland. 

Alive — that's the feeling the ocean gives you and the feeling you crave, the feeling that keeps you going. Through dry spells, through a busy life and of family and work, through the ups and downs, it is that feeling— the brief moment of being alive.

There's something about understanding this feeling that gives a surfer their zen. It's an understanding of hope and the endless possibilities. It's knowing that someday it will be there, even if it's flat and blown out and everything is wrong today, someday you'll come around that same corner and you'll see those waves you dream of. 

But the ocean isn't trying to be perfect. There is a real audacity in each attempt to conquer it. The ocean can only be harnessed momentarily. Surfing requires you to perform in the moment; muscle memory must take over. 

There's no faking it in the ocean. 

Even a slight tightness in your hip or neck from a modern life full of screens can act as a great white shark. Everything must be overcome in a split second, you must push your board tip down the face of the wave and swing your legs under your hips. The margin for error is low. Any element off by an inch can throw off your balance and timing as the wave forms above you.

The exact moment when it all comes together is what makes surfing so beautiful. Waves aren't something you can hold in your arms or a bucket, they aren't something you can keep away with a fence or a breakwater. The waves will come and all you can do is hope to be ready in that moment to rise to the opportunity that they present. 

No matter what it is in life that you take on, find passion for the pursuit. The reward will be happiness, a true smile ear-to-ear, and so much more. 

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